New Izakaya is outrageously stylish in LA’s arts district

The restaurant menu offers sushi, of course, but at its core, the kodō is an elevated Kyoto-style izakaya, a sort of Japanese pub, with an assortment of fun bites designed to be shared over the course of a long evening, accompanied by round after round of drinks. The style seems to match Chef Takahashi’s big personality.

That means there will be dishes cooked over binchotan charcoal, a handful of salads, plenty of simmered and marinated plates, modern desserts from pastry chef Mami Yamamoto, and a carefully curated list of drinks inspired by of the Los Angeles cocktail scene. The drinks menu covers sake in multiple denominations, natural wine from around the world, craft beer from Saitama’s Coedo Brewery, and cocktails led by Beverage Director Chris Gomez and Bar Manager Will Henry who rely on Japanese ingredients like umeboshi and yuzu.

Chef Takahashi’s top choices on the dinner menu range from a soybean, bean and burrata salad to seared sea bream sashimi and Sakamushi, a dish of clams steamed in sake and butter. And if you want sushi but aren’t sure which cuts, there’s a six-course sushi omakase helmed by sushi chef Alex Kohsuke Suzuki, neatly tucked away at the bottom of the menu.

Christopher S. Washington